Sprawling in its interest, Salt: A World History delivers a treasure trove of historical information, but risks losing its key thrusts amidst the cornucopia of trivia.
It’s easy to forget salt’s significance in food today, what with that wonderful invention of refrigeration, but for most of humanity’s history, salt came hand-in-hand with food — deny its access, and famine becomes a very real threat without the ability to store food; wars are lost, and regimes toppled by the rage of those unfairly taxed. Salt provides both a macro level view of the tides of civilisations, including their impact on each other through trade or war, from 2000BC to today, as well as a micro view where readers are treated to endearing recipes for various food items and personal stories of key figures in the discoveries and sale of salt.
The first part of the book focuses on the importance of salt particularly in the preservation of food in the past, along the way resulting in new wonderful types of food we still consume today, for example soy sauce, cheese, and hams. It was enchanting to read about how various foods are made — fermented beans in earthern pots required salt as otherwise they would putrefy too quickly for the emerging lactic acid, while blue cheese is milk from sheep in St Affrique curdled by powder from grated moldy bread, subsequently stored in damp caves. Up to a certain point, however, there may have been one or twenty too many recipes for the various preserved fish, given that they more or less followed the same process of being packed tightly in brine-filled barrels.
The production of salt is covered in detail, with the progressive innovations in its processing, and the ways it is done in various parts of the world at various times. Naturally, salt and its associated products featured heavily in trade and the economy, with England continuing Lent after breaking with the Catholic church in 1533, in order to sustain its fishing industry (red meat was forbidden during Lent, so salted herring sold well. Amusingly, a good source of revenue for the Church was selling permits to eat meat during Lent.)
Merchant ships that were used to trade salt could be converted into military ships, becoming the deciding factor in Venice’s victorious wars. Another military strategy was to destroy saltworks of the opposing side, one that was used by the Union against the Conferderates in the American Civil War. America would have gotten its independence from Britain earlier — if the British’s naval blockade on salt wasn’t so painful in the early 1700s, before America found their footing in salt production. Many a government filled their coffers through taxing salt; the French revolution and Gandhi’s independence movement were sparked from the people’s anger at such taxes.
In the area of science, after millennia of intuiting what salt was, electrolysis in the 19th century gave us a chemical definition: any substance caused by the reaction between an acid and a base. The separation of elements from salt, such as magnesium and chlorine, birthed entire worlds of application, from common everyday products like lightbulbs and bleach, to chemical warfare (because humans).
Kurlansky provides a comprehensive look at the myriad ways salt has shaped humanity — I admit to not having paid much attention to this humble pantry ingredient before this. There are moments of his dry wit that elicited chuckles from me. I only wish he culled repetitive sections, and all his disparate facts came together in a way that was easier to follow, especially for the first part of the book. It was hard even to draw links from one paragraph to the next at times, which was not helped by the vague chapter titles and the barrage of names (of fish, of places of which I was not familiar with, of food). Stretch goal: more geographical diagrams when describing spatial trends, because we can’t all be whizzes at geography.
Rating: 4/5
— Salt: A World History (Mark Kurlansky, 2003)